Back in paradise
We left our guesthouse and made our way by taxi from Kota Bharu to Kuala Besut. The next leg of the journey was by speedboat to the most amazing Island so far, Perhentian Kecil (small Island) on the north east coast of Malaysia. We decided after reading our rough guide to stay on coral beach on the west coast. We stopped at Senja resort and treated ourselves to a room with an elevated view of the beach and crystal clear blue waters (just like in the brochures). We were both knackered and I ended up missing the sunset as I fell asleep!
The next day after having a yummy breakfast of scrambled egg and beans on toast we went exploring and took a snorkeling trip around the islands for RM30 each (5 pounds). We went to 5 different locations to snorkel………….wow, wow and triple wow. I keep saying that it can’t get better but it did. I achieved a lifetime ambition of swimming with a turtle, infact not just one but 4 or 5. They forage around for food and come up for air every 5 minutes or so. The trick is to be patient and follow them as they surface. As you can see from the photos Steve and I managed it several times. It was the best thing ever, the turtles almost posed for the photos knowing we were going to do them no harm. We were both within touching distance from them for half an hour or so. What an amazing first day and it made us realize we had made the right decision in changing our plans of 9 days in Penang.
2008-04-03, Perhentian Islands, Malaysia. By: kay1968
After 6 more hours of Malaysia's finest driving we arrived at the pier to board our questionably sea worthy vessel for the journey to Pilau Perhentian Kecil, for our next dose of sun, sand & snorkelling. After much debate and the "old not good England" when it suits we upgraded our tickets to the "speeeeeed" boat, which turned out to be the ferry and a day of fleece the whitie was well under way, I (Hamish) won't bore you with the details but there were hidden costs coming out of the woodwork at every turn, I was not a happy camper by the time I got to shore. When I woke the next moring and saw the beautiful beach and surroundings yesterdays worries seemed more distant than a -5 degree frost in Central Otago. Long Beach where we staying was something out of the movies crystal clear water and white sand beaches, this was my first true experience of this and it is someting that I could get used to. We upgraded up accomodation after the first night to a A frame bungalow with bathroom on the beach, it was the best move that we could have done as it made the stay far more pleasent than sharing the very stinky communal bathroom. I saw a Shark and a Turtle on my snorkelling trip which was pretty cool. After 5 days of doing nothing on the beach it was time to head back to the mainland and on to Thailand. We had one night in Kota Bahru on route.
There are lots of places to stay on Long beach, perhentian kecil. One when reaching there has to walk around and look for the one most suitable to your need and wallet. Note that almost all do not take reservations and only recieve walk in guests. Panoroma where I stayed I feel has the edge. There are all kinds of accommodation going from the basic no attached toilet (RM30) to the fan with attached toilet (RM 55 a night) and the “top of the range” room with air con and attached toilets. That one goes for 110RM a night for 2 nights with dinner thrown in for 2 nights that you stay there. The room is basic just one big bed, a cupboard and 2 king sized lizards standing guard outside the veranda acting as insect repellants. Panaoroma has also a good location being in the centre of long beach and just about 30 m off the white sandy beach and you can get to any other of the beach restaurants easily.
Most of the menu served on Long beach is quite similar to one another. Mostly have the usual western meals to satisfy the hungry western traveler in search of some familiar food as well as some BBQ seafood and local Malaysian dishes. Try some of the local Malaysian dishes like fried rice at turtle café, the rice with beef and red sauce with was wonderful at the Danial café and the excellent tandoori chicken at the Panaroma. In the end I feel Panaroma had the edge over the other restaurants as it serves good food in a nicely setup restaurant with importantly mosquitoes coils burning underneath to repel any mosquitoes . You can have dinner while watching the daily 8.00 pm movie of the night screened on TVs followed by a 3 scoop ice cream. Just right to rest the tired limps after a day in the sun and the sea. If you prefer watching the stars while eating, head out then to have dinner on the beach to have dinner at where you can lie on the sand and have dinner and watch the stars at the same time. After you can stroll along the beach and at the same time watch out for the “fireman” of the island. This is a local who puts on an impromptu fiery show twirling balls of fire. Quite spectacular show for the night.
I went to the perhentian kecil in peninsular Malaysia in Middle of June on the recommendation of a friend who went there in the 90s when it was less modernized and told me it was a good place to see sea creatures My friend actually saw huge manta rays there when diving. Although I did not see a manta ray as I don’t dive, I actually got to see turtles. Not the small kind you find in the pond but the really big one. The first one I saw was sadly a dead one floating on its back in the sea. We were then brought to another spot where we at first saw the shadow of the turtle swimming beneath the water. Only the boat man was experienced this dark shadow moving in the sea and he told us to watch out as it was rising to take breathe. For the next moment the turtle actually popped its head up above water to take a quick breath and down it went again. Much too fast for me to even turn on my camera let alone get a good shot. But I have a picture of the turtle beneath water doubt many can notice that though. We then snorkeled and spotted a big turtle happily eating off the sea floor and having 2 sucker fish attached to it helping to keep its shell clean. It was a good sight to behold and probably the largest sea creature I have seen while snorkeling. Also finally for the first time saw a black tip shark swimming by . Just a young one about 0.75 m long swimming by me at a distance of 10 m away before disappearing quickly away. Off shore snorkeling at perhentian kceil long beach where I stayed is also good . Just not too far from the shore there are already loads of fish of many different variety that will happily swim around you. Sadly most of the coral are dead but for the spots which are alive, sea life thrives and I got see little nemos or clown fish swimming inside sea anemoea, huge purple parrot fish (0.5 m) long eating off the coral among other fish. It was just good and peaceful for me to float and watch the fish go about their business in the sea coral. I regret not getting at least a cheapo underwater camera to take picture of the turtle, the shark and the huge purple parrot fish. This is definitely better snorkeling in terms of variety of fish than in places like Krabi, phi phi island, Trang, Tioman although the not so well known places in Bali are also good. The fewer people the better the fish and the coral. The perhiantian islands is still a good place for the fish to live but as from the evidence of the dead coral how long more this will last I wonder.
So we made it! On 22nd March we took the long journey through the remainder of Thailand and into Malaysia, travelling via minibus (wreckless drivers) to the border. We left Koh Lanta at 0730 and changed minibuses 4 times, taking a new one for the next town along the way. We were dropped off at the Thai-Malay border at 2100. From their we walked across into Malaysia and took a taxi to Kuala Besut, on the North-East coast. It was a 1.5hr ride, but only cost 10GBP! We arrived at the coast and found a hotel for the night, and arranged travel via ferry for the next morning to take us onto the Perinthain Islands (Kechil=small, Bessar=big).